British fragrance entrepreneur Jo Malone is facing legal action from cosmetics giant Estée Lauder Companies over the use of her name in a perfume collaboration with fashion retailer Zara.
The dispute stems from a partnership between Zara and Malone’s newer fragrance brand Jo Loves. Estée Lauder argues that packaging used in the collaboration features wording that highlights Malone’s name, stating: “A creation by Jo Malone CBE, founder of Jo Loves.”
According to Estée Lauder, this wording risks creating confusion with its own luxury fragrance label Jo Malone London, which the company acquired in 1999 when it purchased Malone’s original perfume business along with the commercial rights to her name.
Under the terms of that agreement, Malone reportedly committed not to use the “Jo Malone” name for marketing or branding purposes in the fragrance industry. Estée Lauder now claims the Zara collaboration violates that arrangement and undermines the identity of the Jo Malone London brand.
The company has filed a lawsuit against Malone, her brand Jo Loves, and Zara’s UK division. The legal case includes claims of trademark infringement, breach of contract and “passing off,” a legal concept referring to situations where consumers might mistakenly believe a product is linked to another brand.
A spokesperson for Estée Lauder said the company had spent more than two decades building the Jo Malone London brand following the acquisition.
“We have invested significantly in developing Jo Malone London over the past 25 years,” the spokesperson said, adding that Malone was compensated when the deal was completed and had respected its terms for many years.
Malone, who founded her original fragrance business in the early 1990s, gained international recognition for perfumes inspired by natural British ingredients and scents such as blossoms and herbs. The brand later expanded into scented candles and bath products.
In previous interviews, Malone has acknowledged that she regrets selling the rights to commercially use her own name as part of the 1999 agreement.
Estée Lauder said it respects Malone’s efforts to pursue new ventures, but stressed that contractual obligations must be upheld and that it intends to defend the brand it has developed since acquiring it.
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